Bienvenue à Basse Terre. La Kaz du Douanier is a small town restaurant in the beautiful seaside Deshaies. Every time we go to Guadeloupe, La Kaz is a must stop for at least two night’s dinners. The food is fresh. The Rhum Ti Punch is potent. The service is spot on. The owners and staff are friendly and attentive.
We landed at Pointe-à-Pitre Airport located in Guadeloupe on Grande Terre section of the island. Excitedly, we called the rental company. They were quick to pick us up and shuttle us to our rental. If you are like me and can’t drive manual/stick, then reserve an automatic as soon as you know you are going. There are only a few and hard to come by. Customary paperwork behind us, we load up the car and head out to the N2. This will take us to Deshaies.
Between each town along the N2 are sprawling vistas of farm-land and forests and beautiful beaches. The roads are winding and hilly and provide many opportunities to pull the car over. Watch the water. Buy fresh coconut water poured from the coconut. Get a Bokit. Bokits are delicious warm sandwiches that are best from a food truck. My mouth is watering thinking about them.
After about 10-15 minutes driving, we cross onto Basse Terre, the other of the two butterfly wings that make up the Guadeloupe’s papillion shape. Basse Terre is approximately 338 square miles and the more agricultural side of Guadeloupe.
On this side of the island are sites like La Maison du Cacoa (The Cocoa House) Musee du Rhum, the Botanical Garden and Langley Resort Hotel Fort Royal.
About a 50-minute drive from the airport is our destination, a beautiful seaside town called Deshaies. We picked up some groceries and alcohol on the way to our rental at Caraib’Bay Hotel. We stay in a bungalow with a kitchenette. Definitely worth it when you have kids or just don’t want to be rushing out for every meal. Caraib’Bay is close to the beach but not on the beach and about a 10 minute drive from downtown Deshaies. Once we settled in we made reservations for dinner and went for a dip in the pool. The kids were too excited to venture to the beach after a long flight and drive.
In downtown Deshaies is La Kaz du Douanier, a small-town restaurant across the road from the beach. Every time we go to Guadeloupe, La Kaz is a must-stop for at least two night’s worth of dinners. The food is fresh. The Rhum Ti Punch is potent. The service is spot on. The owners and staff are friendly and attentive.
Make a reservation; they are required. They open at 6:30p and fill up quick. The meals are always on point. Honestly, I don’t recall ever not liking a meal at this small restaurant. From the Tartare de Thon to the Dorade Grille to the Fois Gras to the Risotto. Everything is delicious and in good portions.
For drink, to those who are used to going to islands like Jamaica and Barbados and getting their signature rum punch, you will be surprised. The Gwada version is very upfront with the punch. The desserts here are so on point that you want to smack someone. You will need a coffee/tea after dinner and then a walk down the main road or on the beach
Word of advice: The Guadeloupe rhum ti punch is not for the weak. It’s white rum, sugar or honey, and lime. At Kaz, as well as the other restaurants on this strip, the pours are generous, so make sure you have enough time to walk it off before getting into your car. The first time, I liked it. After that, it was a must-have. Bon repas.
La Kaz du Douanier: 84 Boulevard des Poissonniers, Deshaies 97126 Guadeloupe
Hours: Monday to Saturday; 6:30p-9:30p
Practical Tips
- Show up hungry.
- Make reservations.
- Drink lots of water
- Learn some French
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