Arriving in Tangier by overnight train felt like stumbling into a dream — a slightly wobbly, too early in the a.m. dream, but a dream nonetheless. I couldn’t sleep most of the night. As we stepped off the train into the early morning haze, we were greeted by the city’s unmistakable mix of salty ocean breeze, distant honking, and — most importantly — cats. So many cats. I imagine that this is where the Doctor Who writers got the idea for the Catkind nurses in New New York. It quickly became clear that Tangier’s kitties were the unofficial mayors of every street, rooftop, and sun-warmed stoop.
Be aware..there are a lot of hills in Tangier. One hill had me walking on a 45° degree angle. A ten minute ascend found us in the Petit Socco, a small square within the medina. Walking around the medina is like starring in your own indie adventure movie, except you have no idea where you’re going and every side character is a cat. Some of the only beings we encountered so early in the morning. And the children going to school. Narrow alleys, bursts of color, the scent of freshly baked bread, unopened shops soon to be selling everything from teapots to tasseled slippers — the medina pulls you in and doesn’t let go. Getting lost here isn’t just likely; it’s basically mandatory. The smell of coffee and pleas of our children lead us to Café Central. Coffee plus a delicious breakfast was a good complement to people-watching.
After a bit we thought we’d hit the atm and came upon the Place du 9 Avril 1947, a large square dedicated to a speech that would lead to Tangiers and Morrocco’s independence. The square was full of locals, chatter, and a few determined pigeons. The famous fountain, sadly, was not running, but the atmosphere was lively enough to make up for it. We parked ourselves on the side of the fountain, and admired the slow, steady heartbeat of Tangier life. Until the kids got bored
After about 30 minutes, we slowly walked back to Mimi Calpe, where the incredibly helpful manager arranged our lunch, a chicken tangine and a trip to Achakar to ride camels. This beach side town stretches along the coastline is famous for one thing: camel rides on the beach.
If you’ve never climbed onto a camel while trying to look both graceful and nonchalant, I highly recommend it — for the humbling experience alone. Perched atop my new, slightly grumpy companion, me and my middle kid ambled along the field next to the beach, feeling like a very confused desert nomads who had taken a wrong turn somewhere.
Back in town, we changed for dinner and went for a walk. As it was during Ramadan, we had time before sundown. We went for appetizers at…and then cabbed it to Kebdani Restaurant on Rue Dar Baroud, one of the best places to eat in Tangier. Hidden deep within the Medina’s labyrinth, Kebdani is cozy, welcoming, and delicious. I ordered the pastilla — a flaky pastry filled with chicken, almonds, and enough powdered sugar to qualify as dessert — and a steaming plate of lamb couscous that could feed a small army. Moroccan hospitality is real, and so are the portion sizes. The entire staff was amazing. After dinner, we waddled home to the guesthouse.
The next morning, we enjoyed a relaxed breakfast at Mimi Calpe in their peaceful garden: Moroccan mint tea, hot coffee, fresh bread, homemade jam, and eggs. It was the perfect Tangier send-off.
Our driver (booked through the guesthouse) arrived right on time, ready to take us to our next adventure: Fes via Chefchaouen, the famous Blue City of Morocco. Leaving Tangier was bittersweet — I wasn’t quite ready to say goodbye to the cats, the camels, or the couscous — but more magic awaited down the road.
Next time you are in Tangier, check out the Tanja Marina, tour the medina in the early morning, hang out with the cats and stay a night or two at the Mimi Calpe, 71 Rue de la Plage. Tell Youssef, the manager, that I sent you.
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